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Coastal Sediment Dynamics Under Asymmetric Waves and Currents: Measurements and...

As waves travel and shoal towards a beach, their surface elevation becomes peaky (sharp crests) and asymmetric relative to the vertical. Within a wave period, the corresponding orbital velocity near the bottom shows a similar (time) variation, presenting both velocity and acceleration skewnesses. These local nonlinearities are inextricably linked to sediment transport, but the processes involved are not well un...