As waves travel and shoal towards a beach, their surface elevation becomes peaky (sharp crests) and asymmetric relative to the vertical. Within a wave period, the corresponding orbital velocity near the bottom shows a similar (time) variation, presenting both velocity and acceleration skewnesses. These local nonlinearities are inextricably linked to sediment transport, but the processes involved are not well un...
Mestrado em Engenharia Civil, especialidade em Hidraulica, Recursos Hídricos e Ambiente: Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia da Universidade de Coimbra: 2008.
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